Great Allegheny Path (GAP) and the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal (C&O)

The flight from London to Dulles passed quickly. Good reading and light headwinds found our triple-seven arriving early. After collecting my bags and catching the Silver line to Foggy Bottom, I hopped a quick Uber to the historic Watergate apartments. I entered their lives after completing chapter 17 of the author's book. Sue greeted me at the door like a daughter returning from a long vacation. Welcome home!

My friendship with Sam led me to the door at the end of a long, curved hallway. Earlier in the summer, we planned to ride our bikes from Pittsburgh to Washington, DC, using a combination of the Great Allegheny Path (GAP) and the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal (C&O) trails. Unfortunately, Sam became ill hours before our tag-up at the Watergate and follow-on Amtrack train to Pittsburgh to start the trip.

I had no reservations about going solo, and Sam provided remote support despite having a nasty bug. And besides, the overall logistics for the trip were already in place, so why not go and enjoy it.

Landing in D.C., I relished fantastic hospitality, food, and opportunities to see bits of history. Sue and Sandy have a vast network of friends and experiences. They are a Smithsonian of history all to their own. I wish I could have visited more, but I had to assemble my bike and catch a morning train to Pittsburgh.

I rose at my usual time of 0500. The Potomac from the guest room's window reflected the light between mean twilight and sunrise. Cyclist were already commuting to work along the bike path, and rowing crews were preparing for their daily training. Finding my way downstairs to the kitchen, I found myself to coffee and cereal. I soon had my bags on my bike and headed to the train.

The route to the Union Station took me along the Mall and around the White House. I recently read up on John Brown's Raid at Harper's Ferry, knowing I would stay overnight in a local Harper's Ferry, West VA hotel on my bike ride back to Washington, D.C. Given the current division among the Union, I could not help but reflect on the challenges we faced in 1859 over abolition compared to modern perils reflected in our contemporary politics. Traveling does offer priceless perspective and observations.

Eventually, I boarded my first-ever Amtrak train. My life's train experiences come primarily from the Deutsch Bahn (D.B.) in Europe. The Amtrak train was short and double-stacked as compared to the DB. The DB rides across Germany and Europe from stop to stop without blowing a horn. In contrast, Amtrak lays hard on the horn at every rail crossing. I could only imagine living in one of the many homes along the tracks. I wanted to run up to the conductor and quiet them. The railroad crossing safety mechanisms in Europe may be why the trains do not use their horns so often in Europe. Who knows? I just noted the difference and returned my thoughts to the upcoming ride.

The following morning in Pittsburgh, I rode my bike to Heritage Park, the western terminus of the GAP. I took a moment to soak in the three river scenes and admire the words on the terminus marker: Point of Conflict, Point of Renewal, Point of Confluence. I had never been to Pittsburgh. The destination from here was a five-day ride to the "0-Mile Marker" terminus of the C&O trail in Washington, D.C.

The stops included overnight stays: Connellsville, PA; Cumberland, Maryland; Berkley Springs, West Virginia; Harper's Ferry, West Virginia. The route from West to East route on the GAP trail offers two days of climbing on a gentle grade from Pittsburgh to the Eastern Continental Divide. The GAP traces along the Youghiogheny and Casselman Rivers and terminates at the start of the C&O Trail in Cumberland, MA. Once over the Continental Divide, the trail is a steeper and fun 20-mile descent into Cumberland.

In Cumberland, the C&O terminus is well-marked just outside the city visitor center. The C&O follows along the Historic C&O Canal and Potomac River to its terminus behind Thomas Boat Center in Washington, D.C.

The CAP and C&O route is approximately 350 miles in total. The course is in excellent condition, minus two rough sections. Cumberland East for about 25 miles and the last 15 miles into Washington, D.C.

I recommend 38mm tires operating slightly soft for maximum comfort. I drove a Cannondale Topstone with 35mm tires about 10% low from maximum pressure. I used a rear pannier system to carry my food, clothes, and safety and repair items for cargo. Although the Topsctone can mount front panniers, I chose not to mount anything on the front fork. I did carry two standard water bottles. Water is no problem on the GAP; however, on the C&O, I recommend keeping two more water bottles in the panniers to make comfortable leaps between towns on hot days.

Speaking of which, I rode on sweltering days. During my 5 days on the trail, I had full sun with daytime highs around 33-35 degrees Celsius (Mid 90 F).

I would love to ride with you; feel free to recommend and plan a multi-day trip with me. ~Jenn